P0018
PowertrainCrankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A)
The camshaft and crankshaft on Bank 2 are meant to spin in a fixed relationship, and the ECU watches both position sensors to make sure they line up. When the cam timing on Bank 2 drifts out of step with the crank by more than the ECU will tolerate, you get P0018. On most cars this points at a stretched timing chain, a sticking VVT solenoid, or oil that's gone too thick and dirty to let the variable timing work. Bank 2 is the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder 1, so this is almost always a V6 or V8.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0018. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P0018 mean?
P0018 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A).
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Engine warning light on the dash, sometimes with the engine dropping into limp mode
- • Rough, lumpy idle that's most obvious when you pull up at a junction
- • Rattle or chain noise from the front of the engine on a cold start, dying down after a few seconds
- • Sluggish acceleration and a general lack of power
- • Hard starting, worse first thing in the morning
- • Fuel economy creeping up if the timing is meaningfully off
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P0018, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Stretched timing chain on Bank 2, the usual suspect on higher-mileage V6 and V8 petrols where the chain and guides have worn. Common on VAG 2.4/3.2 V6 and some BMW N-series units that eat chains
- 2. Sticking or clogged VVT solenoid on Bank 2, often the cheapest real fix. Old gummed oil blocks the oilways and the cam can't phase properly
- 3. Low or sludged engine oil, or the wrong viscosity. The whole variable timing system runs on oil pressure, so neglected servicing causes this more than people expect
- 4. Worn or failed timing chain tensioner or guides letting the chain go slack and the timing slip a few degrees
- 5. Faulty Bank 2 Sensor A camshaft position sensor reading wrong, so the mechanical timing is fine but the ECU thinks it isn't
- 6. Crankshaft position sensor sending dodgy data, less common but it skews the correlation
- 7. Damaged wiring or a corroded connector on the cam or crank sensor circuit
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Check the oil level and condition before anything else. Pull the dipstick. If it's low, black, or thick as treacle, an oil and filter change with the correct grade can clear a borderline P0018 outright, and it's daft to chase anything else until the oil is right
- 2. Read live data and watch the cam to crank correlation angle on Bank 2. A deviation past roughly 5 degrees points at a mechanical timing problem rather than a sensor
- 3. Inspect the cam and crank sensor connectors and wiring for corrosion, chafing, or a loose pin. Wiggle-test them with the engine idling
- 4. Test the camshaft position sensor on Bank 2, around 500 to 1,200 ohms on most types, or swap it with the Bank 1 sensor and see if the fault jumps banks
- 5. Command the Bank 2 VVT solenoid through your scan tool and listen for it clicking, or pull it out and check it isn't blocked with sludge
- 6. If the oil, sensors, and solenoid all check out, you're into the timing chain. Listen for chain rattle on cold start and compare cam timing against the crank with the front cover off if needed
Common questions about P0018
How long is my car going to be in the garage for this? +
Depends entirely on what it turns out to be. An oil and filter change to rule out dirty oil is an hour. Replacing a cam sensor or a VVT solenoid is usually one to two hours. If it's a stretched chain on a V6 or V8, you're looking at a full day or sometimes two, because the timing cover, accessories, and often the front of the engine have to come apart. That's why the labour bill on chain jobs runs well into four figures.
Should I just buy a cheap cam sensor or VVT solenoid off eBay? +
For the camshaft position sensor and VVT solenoid, a decent quality aftermarket part from a known brand like Hella, Bosch, or Febi is fine and saves you a fair bit over dealer prices. Steer clear of the no-name £8 specials, the VVT solenoids in particular are picky and a cheap one can set the same code straight back. If it ends up being a timing chain, fit a proper OEM or top-tier aftermarket kit with the guides and tensioner included. A cheap chain kit on an engine known for eating chains is false economy.
Can I keep driving it for a bit? +
I wouldn't make a habit of it. If the timing is mechanically out and gets worse, on an interference engine the valves can meet the pistons and that's a wrecked engine. If the car has dropped into limp mode it's telling you to stop and get it looked at. A short, gentle trip to the garage is one thing, but don't be hammering up the motorway hoping it sorts itself out.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →