P0013

Powertrain

"B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)

The oil control valve that operates the exhaust camshaft phaser on Bank 1 has an electrical fault, and the ECM can no longer trust the circuit. That solenoid uses oil pressure to advance and retard the exhaust cam, which is how the engine adjusts valve timing for power and economy. When the circuit goes open, shorts out, or the solenoid sticks, the timing stays fixed and the engine runs rough and lazy until you sort it. On most cars the cause is the solenoid itself or the wiring feeding it, not the cam phaser.

Professional mechanic in workshop

Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0013. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.

Recommended next steps

Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.

Commonly associated cause
Faulty oil control valve solenoid on Bank 1, the most common cause. The internal windings short or the valve sticks with old oil varnish
Where investigation typically starts
Check the engine oil before anything else. Low level, sludged oil, or the wrong viscosity will trigger this on its own, and an oil and filter change clears a surprising number of these
Code system
Powertrain
Timing

What does P0013 mean?

P0013 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1).

This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.

Symptoms commonly associated with this code

Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:

  • Engine warning light on, sometimes with no other obvious sign
  • Rough or lumpy idle, usually worst while the engine is still cold
  • Flat spot or hesitation when you accelerate, particularly from low revs
  • Fuel economy down by roughly 5-10% from what you normally see
  • Harder cold starts, where the engine cranks longer before catching
  • On some cars the ECM drops into limp mode to protect the engine

Possible causes

Causes commonly associated with P0013, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.

  1. 1. Faulty oil control valve solenoid on Bank 1, the most common cause. The internal windings short or the valve sticks with old oil varnish
  2. 2. Damaged wiring in the actuator control circuit, an open circuit or a short to ground
  3. 3. Corroded or loose connector at the solenoid, water and road salt get into the plug and ruin the contacts
  4. 4. Low or dirty engine oil, or oil that's too thick. The phaser is hydraulic, so it needs clean oil at the right pressure to move
  5. 5. Seized or failed camshaft actuator (phaser) itself, less common but it happens at higher mileage
  6. 6. Blown fuse on the VVT supply circuit
  7. 7. Faulty ECM or corrupted calibration, rare and only worth considering once everything else checks out

How mechanics typically diagnose

A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.

  1. 1. Check the engine oil before anything else. Low level, sludged oil, or the wrong viscosity will trigger this on its own, and an oil and filter change clears a surprising number of these
  2. 2. Pull every stored code, not just P0013. Pairings like P0014 or P0016 tell you whether you're chasing an electrical fault or a mechanical timing problem
  3. 3. Unplug and inspect the connector at the Bank 1 exhaust solenoid for green corrosion, moisture, or pushed-back pins, then clean and reseat it
  4. 4. Measure the solenoid resistance with a multimeter, typically around 6.9 to 7.9 ohms. Out of range means a dead solenoid; spot on means look at the wiring next
  5. 5. Check continuity from the ECM connector to the solenoid and confirm the VVT fuse is intact. Wiggle-test the harness where it runs near hot or moving parts
  6. 6. If the solenoid and wiring both pass, run the manufacturer-specific pinpoint tests to decide between the cam phaser and the ECM

Common questions about P0013

How do I know if it's the actual solenoid or just the wiring and plug? +

The multimeter sorts it. Measure the solenoid resistance at the component, around 6.9 to 7.9 ohms is normal for most engines. If it reads open, near zero, or way off, the solenoid is dead and needs replacing. If the resistance is correct, the fault is almost always in the loom or the connector. Check continuity back to the ECM and have a proper look at the plug, because corrosion in that connector throws this code constantly and a clean and reseat costs you nothing.

How long does the repair take? +

If it's the oil control valve solenoid, most are tucked into the cylinder head and accessible, so a garage will usually have it done in under an hour once they've confirmed the diagnosis. A connector clean-up or fuse is a few minutes. Wiring repairs take longer because tracing a fault along the harness is fiddly, budget half a day. Replacing the cam phaser itself is the big job, often several hours, since the timing cover and chain frequently have to come off.

Is a cheap aftermarket solenoid worth fitting or should I stick with genuine? +

For the oil control valve, a quality aftermarket part from a known brand is fine and saves you a fair bit over the dealer price. What you want to avoid is the bottom-of-the-barrel eBay specials, because a sticking or out-of-spec solenoid will set the same code again within weeks and you'll be doing the job twice. Buy from a reputable motor factor, fit it with the correct seal, and use the proper oil. The solenoid is sensitive to oil cleanliness, so a cheap part with old oil is asking for trouble.

Information only, not professional advice

The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →

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