P0705
PowertrainTransmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
The gearbox or engine control module reads the transmission range sensor to know which gear you've selected on the shifter, P, R, N, D and so on. When the signal coming back is missing, contradictory, or shows two positions at once, the module gives up trying to make sense of it and logs P0705. For you that means the car no longer trusts what gear you've told it you're in, which throws everything from starting to shifting into doubt.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0705. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P0705 mean?
P0705 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input).
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Check engine light on, sometimes alongside flashing or wrong gear letters on the dash display
- • Car won't crank in Park but will fire up in Neutral, or vice versa
- • Engine cranks in a gear it shouldn't, the safety interlock isn't doing its job
- • Reverse lights stay off when you select reverse
- • Harsh or random gear changes, or the box locking itself in one gear
- • Gearbox drops into limp mode and limits your speed and gear choice
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P0705, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Worn or corroded transmission range sensor, the contacts inside it degrade over time and start sending muddled position signals. This is the usual offender
- 2. Damaged or corroded wiring and connectors at the sensor, road salt and water sitting in the connector causes intermittent faults that come and go
- 3. Selector linkage out of adjustment or worn, so the physical gear position no longer lines up with where the sensor thinks it is
- 4. Low or dirty automatic transmission fluid affecting an internal range sensor that sits in the fluid
- 5. Poor earth connection near the gearbox, often a corroded earth strap that develops resistance and skews the readings
- 6. Failed TCM or PCM, rare and usually the last thing to suspect once everything upstream checks out
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Read the full code list and freeze frame before touching anything. P0705 alongside P0706 to P0708 tells you a lot about whether the sensor is reading out of range or just intermittent
- 2. Wiggle test the sensor connector with the engine running and the scanner watching live gear position. A reading that jumps about as you move the loom points straight at wiring or a dirty plug
- 3. Check the connector pins for green corrosion and the locking tab for water ingress, this is where a huge share of these faults actually live
- 4. Put a multimeter across the sensor and work through each shifter position, comparing the resistance or voltage to the workshop figures. The values step in a known pattern, a dead spot in one gear gives the game away
- 5. Check the selector linkage adjustment, especially if the sensor itself tests fine. A linkage that's drifted out can throw this code with a perfectly good sensor
- 6. Test the gearbox earth points before condemning the module, a high-resistance earth mimics a sensor fault and costs nothing to rule out
Common questions about P0705
How long is this likely to take to sort? +
An external range sensor on top of the gearbox is usually an hour or so of labour once the part is to hand, plus a recalibration on some models so the box relearns the positions. A simple connector clean is twenty minutes. If it turns out to be an internal sensor that lives in the transmission fluid, you're looking at half a day or more because the pan has to come off and the fluid drained, so confirm which type you've got before booking it in.
Is a cheap aftermarket sensor worth fitting or should I stick with genuine? +
For the external type, a decent quality aftermarket sensor from a reputable brand does the job fine and saves a fair bit over a dealer part. Steer clear of the bargain-basement eBay sensors though, the contacts inside them wear quickly and you'll be back chasing the same fault in a year. For internal sensors or anything on a newer car where the TCM is fussy, genuine or OE-equivalent is the safer money since the access alone makes a repeat job expensive.
Can I carry on driving like this? +
Better not to. The fault can cause the box to shift when you're not expecting it, refuse to start, or drop into limp mode mid-junction, none of which you want in traffic. If you have to shuffle it off the drive, start it in the position it'll actually crank in and keep the distance short and the speed low. Pushing on for miles risks cooking the gearbox if it's stuck in the wrong ratio.
Will it stop me passing the MOT? +
There's no direct MOT check for the range sensor itself, but if the engine warning light is glowing when the tester looks at the dash, that's a failure on its own under the MIL rules. What matters is whether the light is on at the time of the test. Fix the cause, clear the code, drive a few miles to make sure it stays off, then book the test.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →