P062A
PowertrainFuel Pump A Control Circuit Range/Performance
Most of the time this comes down to a dodgy connection or corroded wiring on the fuel pump control circuit rather than the pump itself being shot. The ECU watches the voltage and the way the pump driver module responds to its commands, and when those readings drift outside what it expects, it logs P062A. It's a circuit performance complaint, so the fault could sit anywhere between the control module, the wiring, and the pump's electrical side.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P062A. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P062A mean?
P062A is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: Fuel Pump A Control Circuit Range/Performance.
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Engine warning light on the dash, sometimes with no other obvious clue
- • Long cranking before it catches, or refusing to start when hot
- • Idle that surges or dips, and the odd stall when you come to a stop
- • Hesitation or flat spots when you put your foot down
- • Power dropping off under load, climbing a hill or overtaking on the motorway
- • Sudden cut-out while driving, then it fires straight back up
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P062A, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Damaged or corroded wiring and connectors on the pump control circuit, the most common reason this code shows up, especially around the tank connector where road salt gets at it
- 2. Poor earth connection adding resistance to the circuit, look for green crusty terminals
- 3. Faulty fuel pump driver module or relay that isn't switching the pump cleanly
- 4. Open or short somewhere in the control harness, often from chafing against the underbody
- 5. The in-tank fuel pump itself wearing out and drawing odd current, common on higher-mileage cars
- 6. CAN bus communication fault upsetting the messages between the pump module and the ECU
- 7. Fuel pressure sensor reading wrong and confusing the control logic
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Pull the codes and the freeze-frame data so you can see what the engine was doing when it logged. P062A alongside a low fuel pressure code points you in a very different direction to P062A on its own
- 2. Get under the car and check the pump connector and the harness running to the tank. Unplug it, look for corrosion, spread or pushed-back pins, and a connector full of damp
- 3. Find and clean the fuel pump earth point. A bad earth throws this code regularly and costs nothing to put right
- 4. Back-probe the control circuit with a multimeter while a helper cranks, checking you're getting supply voltage and a clean command signal to the pump module
- 5. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and confirm the pump is actually building and holding pressure. If pressure is fine, you're chasing an electrical or control gremlin, not a tired pump
- 6. Check for manufacturer service bulletins for your model, several makes have known connector and module updates for this code
Common questions about P062A
Will my car fail its MOT with a P062A stored? +
The code on its own isn't a direct fail, but if the engine warning light is glowing when the tester looks at the dash, that's a fail on the MIL check regardless of what's behind it. Sort the underlying fault, clear the code, and drive it a few miles to make sure the light stays off before you book the test. A car that keeps stalling will also struggle through the emissions side if the engine won't hold a steady idle.
What's this likely to cost me to put right? +
Depends entirely on what's actually wrong. A corroded earth or a dodgy connector might be a £40 to £100 job at an independent garage, mostly diagnostic time. A fuel pump relay or driver module is usually low three figures fitted. If it's the in-tank pump that's gone, you're looking at £250 to £600 at an independent, more at a main dealer where the labour rate is higher and they'll fit a genuine part. Always get the wiring and earths checked first so you don't pay for a pump you didn't need.
How do I know if it's the wiring or the pump that's at fault on my car? +
Fuel pressure is your deciding test. If a gauge shows the pump building and holding correct pressure, the pump is doing its job and your fault is in the wiring, earths, or control module. If pressure is low or all over the place and you've confirmed good voltage at the pump connector, then suspect the pump itself. Always check that earth point and the tank connector before condemning the pump, because corrosion there mimics a failing pump perfectly.
Is this something I can fix in my own driveway? +
Some of it, yes. Cleaning a corroded earth strap or reseating a damp connector is a basic job with a wire brush and some electrical grease, and that fixes a fair share of these. Beyond that you need a multimeter and a wiring diagram to test the circuit properly, and a fuel pressure gauge to confirm the pump. Dropping the tank to replace an in-tank pump is messy, involves pressurised fuel, and is better left to a garage unless you've done it before.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →