P0575
PowertrainCruise Control Input Circuit
This is the ECU flagging up an electrical problem in the wiring or switch that tells the cruise control what you want it to do. For you as the driver, it usually means cruise control stops working or behaves erratically, while the rest of the car drives perfectly normally. It's an annoyance rather than a breakdown, but the warning light it triggers can catch you out at MOT time.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0575. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P0575 mean?
P0575 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: Cruise Control Input Circuit.
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Cruise control won't engage at all, or kicks itself off the moment you set it
- • Check Engine light on the dash, sometimes the only thing you'll notice
- • Cruise indicator behaving oddly, either flashing, stuck on, or never lighting up
- • Cruise that works one minute and drops out the next, especially over bumps
- • Car otherwise pulls and idles fine with no loss of power
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P0575, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Faulty cruise control switch on the steering wheel or stalk, the usual offender. A drink spilt into the centre console or a worn contact behind a button does this surprisingly often
- 2. Damaged or corroded wiring and connectors in the cruise circuit, particularly where the loom flexes near the steering column or passes through the bulkhead
- 3. A blown fuse feeding the cruise control system, cheap to find and cheaper to fix
- 4. Short or open circuit somewhere in the cruise wiring harness, often from a chafed wire rubbing through to bare metal
- 5. Brake pedal position switch playing up, since the cruise relies on it to know when you brake. A misadjusted or failing brake switch upsets the whole circuit
- 6. Internal fault in the ECU or cruise module, the least likely cause and the one you rule out last
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Read the codes with a scanner and note anything stored alongside it. A brake switch code like P0571 sitting next to P0575 points you straight at the pedal switch
- 2. Pull the relevant fuse and check it. It takes two minutes and saves you chasing wiring you didn't need to touch
- 3. Inspect the cruise switch and its connector for damage, sticky buttons, or signs of liquid damage. Work the buttons and see if the fault comes and goes
- 4. Follow the wiring from the switch back, looking for chafing, green corrosion, or a loose plug. Wiggle-test connectors with the engine running to catch an intermittent
- 5. Put a multimeter across the switch and check the resistance changes as you press each button, comparing against the service manual figures
- 6. Clear the code and take it for a drive. If cruise works and the code stays away, you've found it. If it returns, you're back to the wiring or, last of all, the module
Common questions about P0575
How do I know if it's the cruise switch itself or just dodgy wiring? +
The switch is the more common culprit, especially if the buttons feel sticky or something's been spilt near them. Test it with a multimeter: each button should give a clean, repeatable resistance reading. If those readings are solid, your problem is in the wiring or connectors. A fault that comes and goes when you wiggle the loom or hit a bump is wiring nearly every time, since a failed switch tends to behave the same way constantly.
How long does this normally take to sort out? +
A blown fuse is a five-minute job. Swapping a cruise switch is usually an hour or less once you've got the part, depending on whether it's a steering wheel button pack or a stalk. Wiring faults are the wildcard. Tracing an intermittent short can eat half a day of a garage's time because finding it is the hard part, and that diagnostic labour is where the bill adds up rather than the parts.
Is a cheap aftermarket switch worth fitting, or stick with genuine? +
For something simple like a fuse you buy whatever's correctly rated. For the cruise switch itself, a decent quality aftermarket part is fine for most cars and a fair bit cheaper than dealer prices. Steer clear of the bargain-bin eBay sellers though, as a poorly made switch with weak contacts will throw the same code again within months. On wiring and connector repairs, always use proper crimp connectors or solder and heatshrink rather than chocolate-block connectors that corrode.
Can I just keep driving with this on? +
Yes, the car is safe to drive. The engine and gearbox aren't affected and you'll only lose the use of cruise control. The thing to watch is the Check Engine light it brings on, because if that's lit when you go for your MOT it can cause problems with the test. Sort the fault and clear the light before the MOT is due rather than leaving it.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →