P0322
PowertrainIgnition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Low
The ECU reads engine speed and crank position from the crankshaft sensor circuit, and P0322 means that signal has dropped too low or vanished altogether. Without a clean signal the ECU has no idea how fast the engine is spinning or where the pistons are, so it can't time the spark and fuel properly. For you that usually shows up as a car that cranks but won't fire, or one that cuts out and leaves you stranded. It's a no-nonsense fault that needs sorting before you trust the car anywhere.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0322. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P0322 mean?
P0322 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Low.
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Engine turns over on the starter but won't catch, or fires up then dies a second later
- • Engine warning light on, sometimes with no other obvious problem
- • Random stalling while driving or coming to a stop at a junction
- • Rough idle and misfiring, the engine hunting and stumbling
- • Flat spots and hesitation when you put your foot down
- • Intermittent no-start that comes and goes with no pattern, classic sign of a wiring or connector fault rather than a dead sensor
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P0322, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Crankshaft position sensor failed or on its way out, by far the usual offender. Heat soak near the engine block kills these over time
- 2. Damaged or corroded wiring and connectors in the sensor circuit, often where the loom runs close to hot exhaust components
- 3. Dirty or loose plug at the sensor itself, a bit of oil or muck on the pins can drop the signal enough to trip the code
- 4. Camshaft sensor or distributor pick-up playing up on older vehicles that still run one
- 5. Weak battery or charging fault leaving the sensor without enough voltage to produce a recognisable signal
- 6. Metal swarf or debris stuck to the reluctor ring or the sensor face, scrambling the readings
- 7. ECU fault, rare but not impossible if everything else checks out clean
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Plug in a scanner and read every stored code, not just this one. Other crank and cam sensor codes (P0335, P0340) point you straight at the circuit and tell you how many sensors are involved
- 2. Get under the car and eyeball the crank sensor connector and harness. You're looking for chafed insulation, green corrosion on the pins, melted plastic near the exhaust, or a plug that isn't fully seated
- 3. Check battery and charging voltage. You want around 12.6V resting and above 13.8V with the engine running, because a tired battery can starve the sensor of a clean signal
- 4. Put a multimeter across the sensor supply with the ignition on. Hall-effect types want roughly 5V on the feed. No supply means the fault is upstream in the wiring, not the sensor
- 5. Hook up an oscilloscope and crank the engine. A healthy sensor gives a steady square wave around 2-5V. A flat line or ragged trace while everything else is good confirms the sensor
- 6. Only fit a new crank sensor once the wiring and supply have passed. Clear the codes and road test, because swapping the sensor without finding a chafed wire just gets you the same fault back
Common questions about P0322
Can I sort this myself or do I need a garage? +
If it turns out to be the sensor and you can reach it, it's a fair home job. The part is usually £20 to £70 for something decent, and it's often two or three bolts plus an electrical plug. The catch is access. On plenty of cars it lives down the back of the block and you might have to drop the starter or get the car up on stands first. Diagnosis is the harder bit, because you really want to confirm it's the sensor and not the wiring before spending money. If you haven't got a multimeter, let a garage prove the fault first.
If I just clear the code, will it stay gone? +
Only if you've actually fixed what caused it. Wipe the code on a dying sensor or a corroded plug and it'll be back within a few starts, usually the moment the engine warms up and the connection plays up again. The one exception is a one-off caused by a flat battery, clear that after charging and it may not return. But a genuine P0322 from a failing sensor or chafed wiring will keep coming back until you put it right.
What's the risk if I leave it and keep driving? +
You're rolling the dice on stalling without warning. The engine can cut out in traffic, at a roundabout, or on the motorway, which is a real safety problem and not just an inconvenience. It might also refuse to restart and leave you waiting on recovery. If the signal is intermittent the timing can go haywire too. This isn't a code to ignore.
How quickly do I need to deal with this? +
Treat it as urgent. A car that cranks but won't fire or one that stalls at random isn't reliable transport, and you shouldn't be relying on it for school runs or motorway trips while this is live. If it's still starting and running for now, get it diagnosed within days rather than weeks. If it's already cutting out on you, sort it before you drive again or arrange recovery to a garage.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →