P0060
PowertrainHO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
Most of the time this is just an aged rear oxygen sensor on bank 2 with a heater element that's given up. The sensor has a small internal heater that brings it up to working temperature fast after a cold start, and the ECU keeps an eye on the resistance of that heater circuit. When the reading drifts out of the expected window, P0060 gets logged. Bank 2 sensor 2 sits after the catalytic converter on the second bank, so on a four-cylinder it doesn't apply, this is a V6, V8 or some V-config engine fault.
ⓘ Information only. This page provides general educational information about fault code P0060. We do not assess the urgency or safety implications of any specific fault. That requires in-person diagnosis by a qualified mechanic. Full terms.
Recommended next steps
Whether a fault is urgent, drivable, or routine depends entirely on the cause on a specific vehicle, and that can only be determined by a qualified mechanic with diagnostic equipment. If a warning light is illuminated, the most reliable next step is professional diagnosis.
What does P0060 mean?
P0060 is a Powertrain (engine, transmission, fuel system) fault code. It indicates: HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2 Sensor 2).
This is a standardised OBD-II code. The technical definition is the same regardless of the make or model of vehicle, although specific causes and symptoms can vary between vehicles.
Symptoms commonly associated with this code
Symptoms that drivers often report alongside this code. Not all may apply to every case:
- • Engine warning light on, usually with no change in how the car drives
- • Slightly worse fuel economy, most noticeable on short trips where the engine never properly warms
- • Rough or hesitant running for the first minute or two from cold, then it clears
- • On some cars a marginal cold start that takes a touch longer to fire
- • Higher emissions while cold, which can show up on the MOT tailpipe test
- • Often no driver-noticeable symptom at all beyond the light
Possible causes
Causes commonly associated with P0060, listed in approximate order of typical investigation. The actual cause on a specific vehicle can only be confirmed by professional diagnosis.
- 1. Worn-out oxygen sensor with a failed internal heater element. This is the usual one, especially past 90,000 miles
- 2. Water or salt ingress into the sensor connector causing a corroded or shorted contact. Common in the UK after winter road salt
- 3. Chafed or melted wiring where the loom runs near the exhaust, breaking or shorting the heater circuit
- 4. Blown fuse on the oxygen sensor heater supply, often a 10A or 15A
- 5. Faulty relay feeding the heater circuit on cars that use one
- 6. Poor earth at the sensor giving an unstable resistance reading
- 7. ECM heater driver fault, rare and only worth suspecting once everything else checks out
How mechanics typically diagnose
A typical diagnostic sequence used by mechanics, provided here for educational reference only. Diagnostic work should be performed by a qualified mechanic with the appropriate tools and training.
- 1. Read the live data and freeze-frame so you know what the car was doing when it set the code, then check the heater circuit fuse for the bank 2 sensors before anything else
- 2. Get the car on a ramp and physically inspect the bank 2 sensor 2 connector and loom for corrosion, melted insulation, or water sitting in the plug
- 3. Unplug the sensor and measure resistance across the two heater terminals. Most are in the ballpark of 3 to 15 ohms cold, check the figure against the manual. An open circuit or wildly high reading means the sensor
- 4. With the connector unplugged and ignition on, confirm you've got battery voltage on the supply pin and a clean earth
- 5. If power and earth are good and the heater resistance is out of spec, the sensor is the fault. Fit a new one, clear the code, and run it through a few cold and hot cycles to confirm it stays off
Common questions about P0060
What happens if I just leave it? +
The car will keep running, but the rear sensor won't warm up fast, so the ECU runs on rough estimates while cold. That means slightly richer mixture, a bit more fuel burned, and dirtier emissions on every cold start. It won't strand you, but you're paying for it slowly at the pump and the warning light stays on, which masks anything more serious that pops up later.
How quickly do I need to sort this? +
It's not an emergency. You're fine to drive it for a few weeks while you book it in. There's no real risk of damaging the catalytic converter from this one because the sensor in question sits downstream of the cat and only monitors it, it doesn't control the fuelling that protects it. Deal with it before your MOT though, because a cold tailpipe test can nudge the emissions figures up.
Is it the sensor or the wiring causing it? +
On a higher-mileage car it's usually the sensor's heater element wearing out, so a new sensor fixes it. But check the connector first. UK winters and road salt wreck these plugs, and a corroded or water-filled connector throws the exact same code. Two minutes inspecting the plug can save you fitting a £60 sensor that didn't need replacing.
How long does the repair take? +
If it's just the sensor, a garage will have it done in well under an hour once the car's on the ramp, assuming the old one isn't seized solid. A stubborn, rusted-in sensor can add time and sometimes needs heat to crack it loose. Wiring repairs take longer because the fault has to be traced along the loom first, which can turn it into a couple of hours of diagnostic time.
Information only, not professional advice
The information on this page is provided for general guidance and educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for diagnosis or repair advice from a qualified mechanic. Always verify any fault before paying for repairs. carfaultcodes.co.uk accepts no liability for decisions made based on this information. Full terms →